For me, the combination of pain and loneliness was almost too much to bear.
When I started, I would have easily been in the final running of the “least likely to succeed” voting. I walked up Springer weighing 345 pounds and had never been backpacking in my life.
The first month was hard. Very hard. It took me about 30 days to reach the Smokies, so I was averaging less than 6 miles per day. The worst part about it was that rarely did I see anyone more than once. Everyone was real nice, but I was just so slow that I couldn’t keep up with anyone. I was very lonely.
My first night in the Smokies was at Mollies Ridge. I laid awake most of the night because my ankles were hurting so bad. The next day, my ankles were still hurting and I could only make it to Spence Field, about 5 miles. I was miserable. I wanted to quit right there. Had there been a road there, I probably would have gone home. I told myself that if my ankles didn’t feel better in the morning, I would take the trail down to Cades Cove and call it quits.
I felt a bit better in the morning, so I continued on. But by the time I reached Derrick Knob, my ankles were screaming again. I couldn’t go on that day.
The next morning I headed towards Clingman’s Dome. Before I reached there, I had pretty much decided that I would “declare success” at Clingman’s Dome, the highest point on the AT, and go home.
That’s when the magic happened. I emerged at Clingman’s Dome on a beautiful, sunny, Sunday afternoon. Gadget and Uncle Al, who I had met the day before were sitting on the wall. I joined them and we had a lot of fun with the tourists. People were curious and had lots of questions.
One young lady, Tara, about 18 years old and with her younger brother and sister joined in the conversation. She asked me if I wanted a soda has she had some in the car. I told her what I really could use was a ride into town. She said sure. As we were walking down the path, she told me that her mother was waiting at the car. I asked her what her mother would say when she showed up with a middle-aged, balding man who didn’t smell so good. She said her mother would say, “Sure, we can help a hiker.”
That’s exactly what her mother said. Not only that, but her mother offered me food and drinks out of their cooler, gave me her address and asked me to write her when I reached the Shenendoahs and then gave me her phone number and told me that if I needed anything at all along the way to continue my hike, I should call and she would send it to me. I hadn’t even known this person for five minutes.
Between that experience, a call home, a hot shower and a soft bed, it was an easy decision to carry on. Within the next few days hiking was a lot better. I didn’t hurt so bad and I met tons of people that I hiked with on and off all the way to Katahdin.
Big Red