Don’t forget the hotspring fed showers at Red’s Meadows campground (see Aloha Tinks post—they are free) if you get there.
Parker pass is a much prettier alternative to the Muir trail from T. Meadows to Lyell base camp.
Personally, I don’t care for the Glacier point to Little Yosemite Valley alternative listed by Mike O. It involves a lot of hazzle and you end up with a steep descent to Illouette Creek only to have to climb out of the valley again. However, you do get to visit Glacier point. Mike’s short choice was good, but I’d prefer starting at Tenaya Lake and “climbing” Cloud’s rest the first day. Then the next morning “climb” Half Dome and descend to the Valley (must catch the shuttle back up) or return to Tenaya Lake.
Don’t stress on trying to do too much. Enjoy the trip. It’s stressful enough going cross country to a new place. Then you’ve got the interspousal dynamics. You are both stressed—you don’t want a vacation from hell. Above all, leave yourself a little time between getting there and starting out (i.e. don’t step out of the car and right into a backpack).
Don’t worry about altitude. If you are well conditioned, pace yourself, don’t overload, and get at least one nights sleep at over 7,000 feet then altitude should be no problem on this stretch. You top out at just over 11,000 feet. The Valley at one end is only about 4000 feet. Reds Meadon 7,600. Be sure to drink a lot (water!), wear shades and a hat. A lot of problems ascribed to altitude in the Sierra are in part due to dehydration, over exertion and U.V. light (glare headache, sun burn).
This recommendation may seem blasphemous, but have you considered car camping with day hikes? You can cover double the ground in a day and eliminate the less sightly parts of a long trail. For instance, the J.M. trail from Agnew Meadows to Red’s Meadows is not at all attractive (it’s basically in a valley cutting out the views), but you can do a classic hike under the Minarets from Devil’s postpile (by Red’s Meadows) to Agnew Meadows as a day hike. Essentially, you just loop farther west, but in doing so you go from a mundane, well worn trail, to a true classic.
You could also have breakfast in Mammoth, take a pretty drive through Mammoth Lakes to the Coldwater Creek trailhead and do a real nice hike with a great view of the Silver divide. Then drive over to Hot Creek (the locals will tell you how to get there) for a soak. The choices are endless, when you retain the flexibility.
And if you are in good condition and leave early, you can do the Half Dome Cables hike as a day hike (It’s a classic!! about 16 miles R.T. from the Valley with about 5500’ gain the first half–If acrophobic post for suggestions) from the Valley and toast your success over pizza and beer that night. Or you can hike from one of three directions to the top of El Capitan. Etc Etc Etc.
If a day hike blows up, it’s on to the next day and the vacation isn’t shot. And there are so many things to see, you’ll actually get a better sampling of the area with the day hike approach. Plus, a little luxury will make the trip go much smoother.
Gary