Dear Freebird,
“Back then” for me was 1982.
I remember weighing my pack and heading up the approach trail to Springer Mountaintop, not knowing there was any other way up.
After a relatively short distance, I realized that this “trail” barely deserved the name! Basically, it was a continuous climb, requiring four limbs. It was really different from my other hikes through Hawaii National Volcano Park (except for climbing out at the end); the Pacific Crest Trail; the Grand Canyon; and others. It was more like rock climbing! Nonetheless, I was young, and I made it.
Recently, when I saw some pictures of the current approach trail, I was amazed. The upgrades were incredible. It seemed to me that only a moving sidewalk would be more comfortable.
Once I reached the top of Springer Mountain, the world became normal again, geographically. Trails were trails as I had seen them elsewhere.
Georgia wasn’t too difficult, although I was warned about “those Georgia boy, they just like to fight.” I do recall, however, one oddity. At every conceivable campsite, there was abandoned gear. The obvious things, yes, like canned food and can openers, and coin money. But, also, clothing, tents, sleeping bags, even dehydrated food. Shoes even! There was no one around to tell me what the story was, and there didn’t need to be, I could figure it out for myself. After all, hadn’t I just climbed that hellacious, primitive approach trail? By the end of that, no one was going to carry one gram more than they had to.
For more than three states, in fact into the fourth, the trails were straight. Time and again, I was into all sorts of climbing. Up, down, down some more, then up again.
Finally, having gotten used to this, I saw my first switchback in Tennessee, on a downhill, as I crested some hill. It was all laid out before me, and I remember thinking, “What’s this?” At first, I wasn’t sure if I would like it, because it was clearly going to require more steps than the more direct routes I’d become accustomed to, and neither downhill nor uphill has ever bothered me. But, as I began to descend, I saw the wisdom of it. More steps yes, but easier steps, a more relaxed journey. Uphill, I figured would be the same, which is to say, easier.
“Why don’t they put these everywhere?” I thought to myself as my appreciation grew.
And as I travelled down, and admired the handiwork, the answer became obvious. The craftsmanship was excellent and the labor involved must be huge. And the trail was, after all, more than 2,160 miles long.
It sunk in to me. Certain areas were improved and well maintained and some were not.
After stopping in the forest for a moment to contemplate this, I realized that the previously silent forest was now full of sound and movement. More and more this became the case. Here again, another realization fell upon me. Apparently, when I walked, all the other life in the forest became still and quiet. Why? The answer was obvious. I was the intruder and bigger than the rest of them. Conversely, when I stopped and was still and quiet, the other life in the forest took no notice of me, and resumed their natural behavious, which involved moving about and communicating with each other. And oh, what wonderful rhythmns!
Standing, listening, absorbing, it occured to me how quickly primitive men and women must have figured out animal behaviour. More, how fast we, the modern people, could and would adapt if we had to.
In these moments, I felt myself connect in a different way with all around me.
After a time, I quietly hunkered my pack into a slightly more comfortable postition on my back. I had been standing all this time.
Slowly, quietly, I began to walk forward, but in a somewhat different frame of mind. It seemed to me that I had come to understand something.
As I walked, happy, with a new awareness of the life around me, I noticed something.
It was the sounds and movement around me.
This time, they continued.
Conan
Conan