Weez,
Looking back at my journal, it appeared the average was 15 a day (including the approach from Silver City). I went up the middle fork as well. It is a beautiful area that I am planning on hiking again this season if all goes as planned. As far as the fords went, another hiker and I counted just over 200 of them. Jonathan is right, do not waste the time taking off your shoes, just go for it. If and when you stop for an extended break, air your feet out, wring out the socks and so on. At night, put on dry socks to wick moister out of the skin (it helps). Let the shoes air as well, set them up somehow to drain and let the wind dry them out. Keep in mind that this type of hiking will prematurely wear out your hiking shoes, dirt and debris tear them apart at the seams. The Gila itself more the just meanders along, it bangs into one cliff face after the other as it travels along (you can find deep swimming holes all along the thing). Still though, there are times where there is no other choice but to get in and get wet (for me the deepest was up to the crotch). As far as the trail itself goes, it is there in segments. The best way that I can describe it is to imagine riding along on a horse, just like the folks who lived and traveled through there once did. What looks like the place where you would want to ride, you are bound to find a piece of the trail. Some areas along the river banks are marked with cairns, some with CDT emblems and some not at all (lots of flooding damage too).
Have fun, WB
WB