Nantahals or Smokeys Tougher?

imported
#1

In ten days, four of us will backpack from Fontanta Dam to Newfound Gap. So, we’re wondering which is tougher, the Smokeys or the Nantahalas, which we finished section hiking last fall?

Until recently, I had always heard that the Nantahalas were the tougher section of the two, but recent comments in reply to another question I had asked are giving me doubts.

Jan Curran, in his book about thru hiking the AT in 1986, noted that the Philospher’s Guide included a quote spraypainted on a guardrail at Stecoah Gap. (paraphrasing) “Only one in ten thru hikers make it all the way…the test is here in the Nantahalas…the Smokeys are vacation land.”

Comments like that gave me the impression that the Smokeys would probably be easier than the Nantahalas (which I didn’t think were that hard). What do you guys say?

Orphan

#2

The Nantahala’s have numerous ups, but the trail, the actual part you put your foot on is fine. The Smoky’s have the one long up from Fontana to Clingmans, but the trail is a rut. An annoying foot deep rut in places causing it to be the Appalachian River if it rains…WHEN it rains.

If you are blessed with sunny sky’s in the Smoky’s, the part you won’t be doing, Newfound Gap to Tri-Corner knob Shelter (northbound) is the most beautiful walk in the Park. It’s a ridge walk with dropoffs on both sides at places.

postcard

#3

The hike from the NOC to Fontana seemed like a steady up hill grunt for 3 days to me. After a short break around Fontana, the up hill grunt continues for the first couple of days into the park until you get past Thunder mountian. Then it finally starts to mellow out.

I agree with postcard that the best section of the GSMNP is from Newfound north. Reasonably easy and frequent, great views.

slo-go’en

#4

My least favorite section of the Appalachian Trail is the section between Cingmans Dome and Newfound Gap. For some reason I just don’t like it.

Old Goat

#5

I didnt like the lower half of NC much,just seemed to go on forever. Maybe I wanted to get to Fontana and the Smokeys. I just thought the Smokeys were better

Virginian

#6

From Augst 29 to September 1, four of us “Orphans” backpacked the AT from Fontana Dam to Newfound Gap. In doing so, I answered a few questions:

  1. Q: Which is tougher, the Natahalas or the south half of the AT in Greaty Smokey Mountains National Park? A: In my opinion, the Smokeys are tougher than the Nantahalas. The Smokey have sustained, steep climbs without switchbacks (examples: climb to Spence Field, climb to Rocky Top, mutliple climbs near Briar Knob, climbs to Clingman’s and Mt. Collins). The only sections of the Nantahalas that aren’t well-graded are Albert Mountain and Sweetwater Cliffs, and both of those are relatively short. I found 10- to 12-mile days in the Smokeys left me more tired than 15- and 16-mile days in the Nantahalas.

  2. So, is the Smokey Mountains section “vacation land” in comparison to the Nantahalas as the old Thru-Hikers companion used to claim? From an exertion standpoint, no. From a scenery standpoint, the Smokeys are of course outstanding. Great shelters. Great views.

  3. This answered a third question. I had thought the first half of the Smokeys might be a “tunnel through the trees” since so many of the balds are reverting to forest, but this wasn’t the case. There are plenty of good views, both from ledges and from open high points.

  4. Could we dispense with a collapsible water container in favor of a clean gallon milk jug with a screw on top? Yes. This worked great.

  5. Could we dispense with a filter? No. Fortunately, we elected to carry one. Several water sources consisted of nothing more than a tiny puddle (Mollie’s Ridge Shelter). A filter was indespensible.

  6. Could we dispense with tents and rely on the shelter reservation system? Yes. We had no problems with space - in part because hiker traffic isn’t particularly heavy in late August, and in part because we usually arrived at a shelter around 3:30 to 4:30 - early enough to ensure that we were among the first. None of the shelters we stayed at were full.

  7. How accurate are the offical ATC map and guideboook for this sectiono of trail? The National Geographic Map is a pile of steaming dung from an overheated jungle bat. The map is so large-scale that contour lines are almost impossible to see. More imporantly, the elevation profile is inaccurate and misleading. For instance, it shows the the climb up Brier Knob as a single “mosquite bite” - one short steep climb followed immediately by a descent. Instead, Brier Knob features multiple steep climbs and descents. It is a very difficult section of trail coming after the tough climbs to Spence Field and Rocky Top, but the map completely misled us. As for the guidebook, the distances seemed accurate for the most part, but it omitted many important terrain features that would have aided us in knowing exactly where we were.

Orphan

#7

This is great info. We are doing a hike From Fontana to Clingmans next year. It will be my first overnite (or two) hike ever! I would like to do the entire lenght of the Smokies the year after. Any addionial info or words of wisdom to a couple of newbies would be great. and Thanks.

Hiking Mt LeConte up/down same day in late Oct.this year. Cant wait!

Team Ferrell

#8

Hey, “Team Ferrell”, here are a few more observations:

  1. The climb to Mt. LeConte on the Alum Bluff Trail is a five-mile climb that is well graded. It will give you a pretty good feel for the first day out of Fontana Dam (and also for the kind of climbs you get in the Nantahalas).

  2. The climb out of Fontana Dam up to Shuckstack and on to Doe Knob isn’t bad - well graded and enjoyable. So if you’re first stop is Birch Springs Gap (mile 6, between Shuckstack and Doe Knob), the going is good. If you’re going all the way to Mollie’s Ridge Shelter (an 11-mile hike), the last climb (1.7 miles) gets gradually steeper until it is pretty difficult.

  3. Starting a hike at the SOUTH end of Fontana Dam is just a blast! Starting any new adventure is always exciting (until the waves of excitement break against the rocky shores of exhaustion later in the day). But a group of backpackers walking across that dam are in for a treat. It’s just fun and a great way to begin the fun.

  4. Most of the shelter don’t have privies, but come equipped with a shovel to “dig and dump.” This actually seems to work very well.

  5. We didn’t have any rodent problems at any of the shelters, which came as a big surprise. Most of the shelters are relatively new. All were very nice.

Orphan

#9

Thanks for the great info Orphan. I am super excited to hike a piece of the AT next year. Even if its just a couple nites. We are in pretty good shape (run, cardio, weights, ect) how long should it take to get from Fontana to Clingman or Newfound. We want about 3days/2nites on the trail. What do you suggest? What kinda time frame to do the whole 71 miles (my next adventure) inside the park?

Team Ferrell

#10

…also, and don’t shoot me, what about cell service. Yes, I can live without my phone for a few days but I have GPS, maps and a few other apps that may come in handy. Thanks again.

Team Ferrell

#11

We intentionally lowered our mileage a bit so that we would have the time to enjoy the Smokies. It turned out to be a good choice since the terrain was tougher than expected. We did 13-16 miles/day in the Nantahalas, but averaged 10 from Fontana to Newfound (days of 11, 12, 7 and 10 miles). For a two-night/three day trip, I’d definately recommend Fontana to Clingmans rather than going all the way to Newfound (unless you’re a 20-miler who thrives on big miles).

At our pace, we could have done the entire park in five or six nights - allowing for the extra food needed (or the time to resupply in Gatlinburg), I’d probably want to allow for six nights. However, we ran into some hikers who were doing the entire park in three nights, so anything in that range is possible depending upon fitness and skill level.

We didn’t carry a cell phone (I don’t own one), but Nancy at The Hikers Inn in Fontana said that reception at Double Springs Gap was good. She was right - we saw at least three backpackers using cell phones there. I don’t believe there is any reception at Mollie’s Ridge, Russell Field, or Clingmans Dome. I don’t know about the other shelter areas.

Orphan

#12

Great. Thanks again.

Team Ferrell

#13

You are going to love this hike. We walked from clingmans to fontana Sept. 09, views are awesome with some cool backbones along th way. A little tougher than we expected for 3 and 2. Enjoy.

kmoses