Nice summary freebird.
The key thing I’d add to it is resupply - the only place that would guarantee being open was VVR (where I think the road opened c. 18th June vs late May of an average year). In early '05, Muir trail ranch was shut, Reds was shut, the road to Horseshoe meadows only just before we got there (so couldn’t rely on it), Tuolumne was shut etc. This meant the ‘guaranteed’ resupply options were: Whitney Portal, VVR, Mammoth, Sonora Pass (Bridgeport) and Echo Lake/SLT. At the point when you’re sending resupply parcels/bounce box, you’re unlikely to know where you can resupply beyond these. At least 2 boxes other people sent to Tuolumne were lost for ever.
We started June 1st from KM and had significant snow from just after KM till just after Sierra City, i.e. 500 miles. We sent our crampons and axes home from Sierra City and didn’t regret it despite the bit of snow round mt Gibraltar after SC.
Like Heather & Remy, the longest section of snow was from just after Bishop Pass trail to the Evolution Creek ford - 18 miles I think, over Muir. In total, I estimated that we had about 250-300 miles on continuous snow, and about 100 on patchy snow, where the trail could often be seen poing through thus navigation was easier, and maybe 100 miles on fairly clear trail including 23 miles through Lyell Canyon to Glen Aulin. We had snow above 9-10k ft in the high sierra, dropping to 8k ft in Yosemite/Northern Sierra, although s-facing exposed slopes and ridges were often melted.
I thought it would probably be worth identifying the section where we got ‘temporarily mislocated’ (lost isn’t really a concept that works when the trail is buried under snow anyway!). I’ve used the mileages from the old databook, although its quite easy to work out the new databook miles from them. THe starting mileage reference point is mile 699.4 for KM campground.
About 0.5 before Mi 718.9 - saddle - there was a false (snowbound) saddle above Brush Meadow that we thought was
718.9/10,540 alt. We eventually realised it wasn’t 718.9; on this false saddle the trail carries on contouring NE whereas on 10540 it goes NW - if you went NW on the earlier one you’d end up a bit lost.
748.4 -Siberia/Rock Creek jn- featureless plateau with tree, difficult to see any features. We ended up to far N and got ‘sucked’ down the slope till we hit rock ck, where we picked up the rock ck trail heading W and eventually rejoined the PCT.
754.5 -Rock Ck - crossed too early (on good log just after the waterfalls) then bushwhacked for a while till we realised the PCT headed c.0.75mi downcreek on the other side and crossed later.
830.8 - Helen Lake - on the way up to Muir Pass, the valley headed up to what looked like a classic Sierra Pass (map H11, by the ‘O’ of Canyon’) but actually Muir pass was due S of here (compass & GPS rescued us from this).
c. 870 - Bear Ridge - switchbacks down ridge buried in snow, got sucked too far L which gets progressively steeper to cliffs - had to traverse back R to eventually find clear trail down to Mono Ck.
878.3 -Silver Pass- deceptive pass, climb up to something that looks and feels just like a pass, with a small, round lake just after it. Actual pass was 90degrees R and at the top of a slope, c.200ft higher. Without altimeter we’d never have realised this.
1008.8 - bowl with ‘notch on a steep wall’- lots of notches, we had to traverse quite a long way round the bowl, and the actual notch was the second-last one.
c. 1010 - fatal snowfields - we glissaded these…
1016.1 -sierra crest at a saddle- unlike every other pass, don’t descend the other side to the beautiful snowless valley (which deceptively looked like the right route), but traverse the snowfields round the mountain to the L, holding altitude, till you get above Wolf Lake.
c. 1080 to 1084 - just before benwood meadow - heavily treed, lots of snow, no sign of trail, cliffs, gullies etc. All the early hikers got very lost here. We picked up a x-country ski trail (large blue diamond shaped blazes) which re-joined the PCT, there’s only 1 way off the ridge that you have to find.
We had problems with Piute & Return creeks (swam both), Kerrick (swept in once, eventually just made it 200yrs upstream of trail), Stubblefield (swam) and Falls looked deep but was just OK, heading diagonally downstream from the trail.
Dave